Fajardo and Santa Isabel, Puerto Rico: A Visitor's Guide
Puerto Rico gets a lot of visitors who stay in San Juan and don't make it much further. That's their loss. The island's northeast and south coasts offer a completely different experience, and two of the best bases for exploring them are Fajardo and Santa Isabel.
Fajardo
Fajardo sits on Puerto Rico's northeast corner, where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean. The town has a large marina, ferry service to the Spanish Virgin Islands, and some of the best water access on the island. It's about an hour from San Juan by car, less if traffic cooperates.
The Bioluminescent Bay
Fajardo's bio bay at Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve is one of the brightest bioluminescent bays in the world. The water glows blue-green when disturbed, caused by microscopic dinoflagellates in the lagoon. Night kayak tours run year-round and book up fast, especially on weekends. Go on a new moon for the best effect — the darker the sky, the brighter the water.
Seven Seas Beach
Seven Seas is one of Puerto Rico's most popular public beaches, and for good reason. The water is calm and clear, the sand is wide, and there are facilities including parking, bathrooms, and food vendors. It gets crowded on weekends. Go early or on a weekday and it's a different experience.
Island Hopping
Ferries to Culebra and Vieques depart from Ceiba, about 20 minutes south of Fajardo. Both islands have some of the best beaches in the Caribbean. Flamenco Beach on Culebra consistently ranks among the top beaches in the world. The ferry is cheap and runs multiple times a day. Book tickets in advance during peak season.
El Yunque
El Yunque National Forest is about 45 minutes from Fajardo and is the only tropical rainforest in the US National Forest system. It gets over 100 inches of rain a year, which keeps it dense and green year-round. The La Mina Falls trail is the most popular hike and ends at a waterfall with a swimming hole. Go early — the parking lot fills by mid-morning on weekends.
Santa Isabel
Santa Isabel is on Puerto Rico's south coast, about 90 minutes from San Juan. The south coast gets less rain than the north, which means more sun and drier weather. The pace here is slower, the beaches are less crowded, and the oceanfront properties sit right on the water with nothing between you and the Caribbean.
The South Coast
The south coast of Puerto Rico is less visited than the north, which is exactly the point. Ponce, Puerto Rico's second city, is about 20 minutes west of Santa Isabel and worth a half-day. The Ponce Museum of Art is one of the best in the Caribbean. The Hacienda Buena Vista, a restored 19th-century coffee plantation, is nearby and open for tours.
Local Food
The south coast has some of the best local food on the island. Look for roadside kiosks selling lechon (roasted pork), mofongo, and fresh seafood. The stretch of road near Guavate in the mountains above Cayey is famous for its lechoneras and worth the detour on a Sunday when they're all open.
Getting Around
You'll need a car. Public transit between towns is limited, and the distances between things worth seeing are too far to manage without one. Rent at the airport in San Juan and drive out. The roads are generally good, though GPS can be unreliable in some rural areas — download offline maps before you go.
When to Go
Puerto Rico is warm year-round. The dry season runs roughly December through April, which is peak tourist season. Summer is hot and humid but the water is perfect. Hurricane season runs June through November, with the highest risk in August and September. The south coast around Santa Isabel tends to be drier than the north regardless of season.
Staying Here
Aqua Properties has five rentals across Fajardo and Santa Isabel, ranging from high-rise penthouses overlooking the marina to oceanfront villas right on the Caribbean. All have ocean views. Several have infinity pools.
